Wagashi culture of Tokyo

The wagashi culture of Tokyo has evolved alongside the city’s history as Japan’s capital, from the Edo period to the present day. These sweets embody both the weight of tradition and the breath of innovation. Let’s delve into the history of Tokyo’s wagashi and explore their allure.

The Edo Period: Laying the Foundation for Tokyo’s Wagashi

During the Edo period, wagashi underwent significant development. The spread of sugar led to a rich variety of sweets. In Edo (present-day Tokyo), the confluence of confectionery cultures from across Japan created a unique wagashi tradition.

For instance, the beloved “dorayaki” is said to have originated in the early Edo period as “sukesoyaki”. Initially, it was a square sweet with bean paste wrapped in thin baked dough, similar to today’s kintsuba. The name “dorayaki” has several origin stories, including its resemblance to a gong (dora) used when ships departed, or that the batter was originally cooked on a gong instead of a griddle.

Interestingly, there’s a legend connecting the origin of dorayaki to Musashibō Benkei. It’s said that in the late Heian period, Benkei, wounded from battle, was treated at a civilian’s home. As thanks, he made a sweet by cooking a thin batter on a heated gong and wrapping it around bean paste.

Another Tokyo specialty from the Edo period is “ningyoyaki”. Named after the Ningyocho district where it was first sold, these small cakes shaped like dolls were popular among audiences of puppet theaters.

These sweets became beloved everyday treats among common people, laying the foundation for the future development of Tokyo’s wagashi culture.

Meiji and Taisho Eras: Western Influence and New Developments

After the Meiji Restoration, Tokyo experienced a wave of modernization that also touched the world of wagashi. Western confectionery techniques and ingredients were incorporated into traditional Japanese sweets-making.

For example, “castella manju” combined the techniques of Nagasaki’s castella (a type of sponge cake) with traditional Japanese manju. The result was a sweet with a moist castella-like exterior filled with bean paste.

“Butter mochi” was another innovation, adding butter to traditional mochi sweets to create a new Western-Japanese fusion flavor. The rich butter flavor made it particularly popular among younger generations.

Even yokan evolved under Western influence. In addition to the traditional agar-based yokan, a smoother “neri yokan” using gelatin was developed.

These Western-Japanese fusion sweets enriched Tokyo’s wagashi culture, symbolizing the city’s modernization that blended Japanese traditions with Western novelties.

From Showa to Heisei: Preserving Tradition and Embracing Innovation

After a brief stagnation following World War II, Tokyo’s wagashi culture regained vitality with economic recovery. From the late Showa to the Heisei era, there was a movement to preserve traditional techniques while actively incorporating new technologies and materials.

For instance, the introduction of vacuum packaging technology extended the shelf life of wagashi, making them accessible to more people. This technology significantly changed the distribution of sweets like dorayaki and manju, which previously had short shelf lives.

New ingredients and flavors were also introduced, appealing to younger generations. Wagashi incorporating generous amounts of Japanese teas like matcha and hojicha, or new-concept sweets combining chocolate or fruits, gained popularity.

Advancements in freezing technology allowed year-round enjoyment of fresh sweets like warabimochi and kuzumochi, adding a new dimension to the traditionally seasonal wagashi culture.

This era saw Tokyo’s wagashi culture evolve into a more diverse and rich form, preserving traditions while actively embracing new technologies and flavors.

Tokyo’s Signature Wagashi: Their History and Charm

Tokyo boasts many long-standing signature wagashi. Besides dorayaki and ningyoyaki, sweets like “imo yokan” and “kuzu mochi” are also representative of Tokyo’s confectionery tradition.

Kuzu mochi, in particular, is still made by long-established shops dating back to the Edo period. Its unique texture and flavor are loved by many. Interestingly, kuzu mochi is made not with kuzu starch but with fermented wheat flour, preserving a traditional method from the Edo period. The transparent white mochi, served with black syrup and kinako (roasted soybean flour), has become a symbol of summer refreshment in Tokyo.

Imo yokan, made with sweet potatoes (a specialty of the Kanto region), is a favorite autumn treat in Tokyo. It’s known for its natural sweetness and mellow texture. Believed to have originated in the late Edo period, it’s still a common sight in wagashi shops during autumn.

When discussing Tokyo’s wagashi, one can’t forget the dorayaki from renowned shops like “Usagiya,” “Kuromatsuhonpo Sogatsu,” and “Kameju,” often referred to as the “Three Great Houses of Dorayaki.” Each shop has its unique method and flavor, with meticulous attention to details like the baking of the outer pancakes, the sweetness of the bean paste, and the blend of flours used.

These wagashi, each with its unique method and flavor, showcase the richness of Tokyo’s wagashi culture. They are supported by techniques cultivated over a long history and efforts to meet changing tastes over time.

A Kanto Specialty: The Story of Chomeiji Sakura Mochi

The Kanto region, including Tokyo, and the Kansai region have entirely different styles of sakura mochi. While Kansai’s sakura mochi is round and made with domyoji powder, Kanto’s version is rectangular and wraps bean paste in a thin wheat flour dough.

The sakura mochi popular in Kanto is called “Chomeiji sakura mochi,” and it has an interesting origin story. During the Edo period, it’s said that the owner of a tea house near Chomeiji Temple along the Sumida River created a mochi wrapped in cherry blossom leaves. At that time, cherry trees were planted along the banks of the Sumida River, providing the leaves for this new sweet.

Chomeiji sakura mochi is characterized by its thin wheat flour dough wrapped around bean paste and then wrapped again in a salted cherry blossom leaf. The scent and saltiness of the cherry blossom leaf create a perfect balance with the sweetness of the bean paste. The wheat flour dough also provides a unique, chewy texture.

This Chomeiji sakura mochi quickly became popular throughout Edo due to its unique flavor and appearance. Even today, many people visit wagashi shops in spring to enjoy this seasonal treat.

The existence of Chomeiji sakura mochi is a great example of how Tokyo’s wagashi culture is deeply connected to local nature and history. At the same time, the different forms of sakura mochi in Kanto and Kansai symbolize the diversity of Japanese wagashi culture.

Conclusion: Tokyo Changes, but the Spirit of Wagashi Remains

Tokyo’s wagashi have continued to evolve from the Edo period to the present day. While influenced by the West, they have preserved traditional Japanese flavors and expanded their appeal by incorporating new technologies and materials.

Tokyo’s signature wagashi like dorayaki, ningyoyaki, kuzu mochi, and Chomeiji sakura mochi each have their own unique history and charm. These sweets are loved by many not just as confections, but as embodiments of Tokyo’s culture and history.

At the same time, Tokyo’s wagashi continue to innovate through the introduction of new technologies and materials, and attempts at Western-Japanese fusion. This reflects the efforts of wagashi artisans to meet the changing tastes of Tokyo’s ever-evolving cityscape and its people.

However, no matter how much the form changes, the essence of wagashi – appreciating the seasons and expressing the beauty of nature – remains unchanged. Tokyo’s wagashi will continue to evolve, maintaining a balance between tradition and innovation. For a deeper understanding of the profound relationship between wagashi and the four seasons, you can read more in this article.

The next time you visit Tokyo, be sure to taste various wagashi. You’ll find a unique deliciousness that fuses traditional flavors from the Edo period with modern sensibilities. Through Tokyo’s wagashi, we hope you’ll feel the depth of Japanese food culture and the enduring charm of wagashi that changes with the times yet remains fundamentally the same.