Shooken Nagasaki: Where 340 Years of Castella Mastery Creates the Ultimate Japanese Sponge Cake

Walking through Nagasaki‘s streets, exotic aromas drift alongside the city’s international atmosphere. Among these scents is the sweet fragrance of castella (wagashi), a confection that has been crafted in this region for over 340 years. “Shooken” (松翁軒) stands as the premier representative of Nagasaki castella, continuing to create exceptional sponge cakes using unchanged methods from the Edo period to the present day.

Their signature “Gosan-yaki” (五三焼) represents the pinnacle of castella craftsmanship, distinguished by its profound richness and refined texture that sets it apart from ordinary varieties. Today, we explore the world of this ultimate castella born in Nagasaki, where Eastern and Western cultures converged to create something entirely unique.

Nagasaki: The International City with Many Faces

Nagasaki is known worldwide as a symbol of peace, but it has also served as the crucial intersection point where Japanese and foreign cultures meet. The distinctive “Wa-Ka-Ran” (和華蘭) culture—a fusion of Japanese, Chinese, and Dutch influences—can be experienced throughout this remarkable city.

While Kyushu has always served as Asia’s gateway to Japan, during the Edo period Nagasaki became virtually the only connection point between Japan and the world. Under the isolation policy, Western culture, technology, and ingredients flowed into Japan through Dejima island, where they merged with Japanese climate and sensibilities to create a unique cultural landscape.

Castella represents the perfect symbol of this cultural exchange. Though originally a Western confection introduced from Portugal, it evolved into a distinctly Japanese sweet through the refined palate and artisanal skills of Japanese craftsmen. Despite incorporating Western cultural elements, castella has become a legitimate wagashi (traditional Japanese confection) that embodies the essence of Japanese aesthetic sensibilities and seasonal awareness.This transformation could only have occurred in a place like Nagasaki, making castella a true embodiment of cultural fusion.

The Sweet Revolution: How Castella Crossed the Seas to Transform Japanese Confectionery

Castella‘s history begins with the arrival of Portuguese traders in the late 16th century. Originally called “pão de Castela” (Castilian bread), this confection took its name from Spain’s Castile region, though it actually reached Nagasaki via Portugal.

Early castella differed significantly from today’s version, appearing as a simple baked confection. However, as it took root in Japan, continuous refinements were made to suit Japanese palates. Particularly in sugar usage and baking techniques, the confection underwent uniquely Japanese development.

By the middle of the Edo period, casteella had spread from Nagasaki throughout Japan, becoming especially prized as a luxury confection in Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). Its connection with tea ceremony culture and fusion with Japanese aesthetics that value seasonal awareness transformed it into an increasingly sophisticated sweet. So in this sense,

Shooken: A 340-Year Legacy of Confectionery Excellence

“Shooken,” representing the pinnacle of Nagasaki castella, was founded in Tenna 1 (1681) during the middle Edo period by the first-generation proprietor Yamaguchiya Teisuke in Nagasaki’s Hondaiku-machi district. With over 340 years of history, this venerable establishment is renowned not only in Nagasaki but throughout Japan.

Particularly noteworthy in Shooken’s history is its role in technical transmission. From the Edo period through Meiji, Taisho, and Showa eras, confectioners from across Japan came to Shooken to learn castella-making techniques, then spread these skills to their respective regions. Shooken truly functioned as the epicenter of Japan’s castella culture.

Shooken is recognized as one of “Nagasaki’s Three Great Castella Makers” alongside Fukusaya and Bunmeido. However, unlike its counterparts, Shooken has maintained its focus on Nagasaki rather than expanding nationally, continuing to preserve traditional methods.

International recognition has been equally impressive. At the 1900 Paris Exposition, Shooken’s castella earned the Grand Silver Medal of Honor, followed by the Grand Gold Medal of Honor at the St. Louis World’s Fair. The fact that this Japanese interpretation of a Western confection received recognition in the West speaks volumes about Shooken’s technical excellence.

Gosan-yaki: The Ultimate Castella Challenge

Among Nagasaki’s castella varieties, “Gosan-yaki” (五三焼) represents the absolute pinnacle. The name derives from its ratio of 5 egg yolks to 3 egg whites, creating a luxurious formulation with increased egg yolks and sugar while reducing egg whites compared to standard castella.

This special composition produces deeper moistness and richer flavor. However, richness alone doesn’t define excellence. Through Shooken’s master craftsmen’s exceptional skills, Gosan-yaki achieves an elegant, refined texture and mouthfeel that exemplifies sophistication.

Creating Gosan-yaki demands even more delicate techniques than standard castella. The high egg yolk ratio makes baking extremely challenging, requiring experienced craftsmen’s intuition and expertise. Temperature control, timing adjustments, and above all, profound ingredient understanding combine to create this supreme castella.

Experiencing Shooken’s Gosan-yaki: Moments of Pure Bliss

Holding Shooken’s Gosan-yaki immediately reveals its substantial weight—noticeably denser than regular castella with impressive presence.

The difference becomes apparent from the first bite. While maintaining firm elasticity, it melts beautifully in the mouth. Despite modest sweetness, the lingering richness provides deep satisfaction. The enhanced egg yolk proportion creates distinctive robust flavor and moistness that defines this premium confection.

The zarame (coarse sugar) crystals at the bottom deserve special mention. Their textural contrast with the soft castella creates delightful variety within a single confection. This zarame isn’t mere decoration but a carefully considered element essential to overall flavor balance.

Shooken’s Main Store: A Historic Space Where Time Stands Still

Shooken’s main store represents a precious building that has evolved alongside Nagasaki’s history. The second floor houses Café Sevilla, where visitors can savor the signature premium “Gosan-yaki” castella in an elegantly exotic atmosphere.

Stepping inside creates the sensation of traveling back in time. The space, filled with interiors reflecting Nagasaki’s international history and the sweet aroma of castella, offers a truly special experience.

Enjoying Gosan-yaki here transcends simply eating confectionery. The 340-year history, craftsmen’s techniques, and Nagasaki’s cultural background unite to create profound emotional impact.

Access: A Cultural Journey to Nagasaki

Reaching Shooken’s main store requires about 10 minutes by streetcar from JR Nagasaki Station, alighting at “Shianbashi” stop and walking 3 minutes. Its central Nagasaki location makes it easily accessible for tourists.

Operating hours are 9:00-19:00 (Café Sevilla: 10:00-17:00), open year-round. However, since Gosan-yaki is produced in limited quantities, advance confirmation is recommended for guaranteed availability.

When visiting Nagasaki, combining Shooken with historical sites like Dejima and Peace Park allows visitors to experience the city’s multifaceted appeal.

Tradition and Innovation in Harmony: Shooken’s Vision for Castella’s Future

With over 340 years of history, Shooken continues embracing new challenges while preserving tradition. Gosan-yaki exemplifies this philosophy as the ultimate expression of castella excellence.

Born in Nagasaki, a center of international cultural exchange, castella remains beloved as a symbol of East-West fusion. Experiencing Shooken’s Gosan-yaki transcends simply enjoying delicious food—it connects us with Japanese cultural history itself.

When next visiting Nagasaki, make sure to experience Shooken’s Gosan-yaki. Within each bite lies 340 years of inherited craftsmanship and devotion, waiting to be discovered.