A century old wagashi store nearby the Sumida River

Nestled along the banks of the Sumida River stands a small Japanese confectionery shop, “Jiman Kusa mochi.” (you can find what mochi is here) This historic establishment has been captivating taste buds with its signature yomogi mochi (mugwort rice cakes) for over 150 years, since the early Meiji period. Today, we explore the traditional flavors and rich history of this Tokyo downtown gem.

Jiman Kusa mochi: A Living Legacy of Edo’s Culinary Culture

Jiman Kusa mochi is a venerable Japanese confectionery shop located in Tokyo’s Mukojima district. Founded in 1869 (Meiji 2), it originally served as a teahouse offering kusa mochi (mugwort rice cakes) to passengers of the Sumida River ferry.

The shop’s most distinctive feature is its uniquely shaped mochi with a concave center. This innovative design was conceived by the founder to prevent kinako (soybean powder) from spilling as people enjoyed their treats while strolling along the riverbank. This thoughtful detail may well be the secret behind the shop’s enduring popularity for over 150 years.

Upon entering the shop, visitors are greeted by the gentle, aromatic scent of yomogi (Japanese mugwort). Behind the glass display case, vibrant green mochi are meticulously arranged, preserving the atmosphere of traditional Japan in today’s modern world.

Yomogi Mochi (Kusa mochi): Japan’s Traditional Harbinger of Spring

Yomogi mochi (also known as kusamochi) is a traditional Japanese confection characterized by its vibrant green color, achieved by incorporating mugwort leaves into the rice cake. Its history is remarkably deep, with cultural significance stretching back centuries.

The origin of kusa mochi can be traced to ancient China, with the practice eventually making its way to Japan. Records indicate that Japanese people were already enjoying kusa mochi by the early Heian period (around 850 CE). During this time, it was believed that eating kusa mochi would ward off evil spirits and promote longevity.

Initially, these treats were made using Hahakogusa (gogyou), one of Japan’s seven spring herbs, and were called “mother-child mochi.” This name is said to have reflected a wish for strengthening the bond between mothers and children. By the Muromachi period, mochi incorporating yomogi (Japanese mugwort) appeared, resembling the current form, with records of “yomogi mochi” dating back to 1533.

The bright green color of kusa mochi symbolizes spring’s fresh grass, serving as a seasonal marker for Japanese people. The distinctive aroma and flavor of yomogi have become an essential part of Japanese culture, allowing people to experience seasonal changes through all five senses.

During the Edo period, kusa mochi became an offering for the Hinamatsuri (Girl’s Day) celebration on March 3rd and gained popularity among commoners. Through this evolution, kusa mochi transcended its role as mere food to become culturally significant, deeply connected to Japanese seasonal festivities.

Jiman Kusa mochi’s Specialty: A Taste of Tradition in Every Bite

The flagship product of Jiman Kusa mochi is, undoubtedly, their “Kusa mochi (with anko filling).” This delicacy has been crafted using unchanged methods for over a century.

The most notable characteristic is the use of fresh yomogi. While yomogi was originally hand-picked from the Sumida River embankment during the shop’s early days, they now use carefully selected domestic yomogi. The mochi is filled with homemade smooth anko (sweet red bean paste) made from Hokkaido Tokachi red beans, creating a perfectly balanced sweetness.

With your first bite, the aromatic flavor of yomogi fills your mouth. The subtle bitterness characteristic of kusa mochi is a testament to the careful processing of the yomogi. The mochi portion, made with refined rice flour, offers an exceptionally chewy texture.

The anko filling strikes a perfect balance – not too sweet, complementing the yomogi flavor beautifully. The ideal portion size makes you want to reach for another. With the arrival of spring, enjoying this kusa mochi becomes a seasonal delight that many regular customers eagerly anticipate.

Access Information

Jiman Kusa mochi is an ideal spot to visit as part of exploring Tokyo’s downtown area. Consider extending your trip when visiting Tokyo Skytree or Asakusa.

• Address: 1-5-91 Tsutsumidori, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
• Nearest Station: About 12 minutes on foot from Hikifune Station on the Tobu Skytree Line
• Hours: 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM (closes earlier if sold out)
• Closed: Wednesdays

While there’s no eat-in space inside the shop, enjoying your kusa mochi along the Sumida River walkway is highly recommended. Savoring these treats while gazing at the flowing river offers a timeless experience, similar to what people of the Edo period might have enjoyed in the same landscape.

Conclusion: Jiman Kusa mochi, Preserving Edo’s Flavor Heritage

Jiman Kusa mochi is more than just a confectionery shop; it’s a living testament to history, connecting Edo, Meiji, and modern times. Their commitment to preserving unchanged flavors for over 150 years reveals the depth of Japanese food culture.

With the arrival of spring, many people visit this small shop, finding in it a precious place to experience traditional Japanese aesthetics, if only briefly, amidst our busy modern society.

When visiting Tokyo, be sure to taste the traditional flavors of Jiman Kusa mochi. With one bite, you can imagine people from 150 years ago enjoying the same taste, creating a transcendent experience that bridges time and space.